Level LineLevel line is the choice of Dr. Ishigaki, the noted tenkara instructor who gave a lecture and on-stream presentation in the Catskills in 2009, in San Francisco in 2010 and in West Yellowstone in 2011. It offers several distinct advantages over a tapered line. The greatest advantage of level lines is their greater density. They are generally made from fluorocarbon, which is denser than the nylon mono that is generally used to make tapered lines. With a denser line you can cast a lighter line, and to my mind using a light line and keeping it off the water to the extent possible is the essence of tenkara. The main limiting factor on how light a line you can cast is wind resistance. If you have two 12' lines with the same weight, the one that is denser will have a smaller diameter. A smaller diameter means less wind resistance, and that means you need less weight to overcome it. Thus, if a line is denser, it can be lighter. And if it is lighter it will be easier to keep off the water. With a softer rod, I believe that in general, you can cast a lighter level line than you can a tapered line - which is why I prefer level lines for the 5:5 rods. (I'm starting to push that envelope with my hand tied fluorocarbon lines.) The tippet end of the line has to be heavy enough to overcome wind resistance or the line and tippet will not turn over properly. In a tapered line, the middle and butt sections of the line are even heavier. The only reason I can see for having a line that is heavier than the minimum amount required to turn over the tippet is because the rod is stiff enough that it requires a heavier line to cast properly. I suspect this is why 7:3 rods are generally fished with tapered lines. Level line is also less expensive than tapered line and generally comes on a spool or at least a coil of line. Because the spool or coil contains more than you need for one tenkara line, it is easy to cut off the amount you want to suit fishing conditions. You can carry the spool with you and cut an amount that best matches the width of the stream you are fishing. Dr. Ishigaki uses lines ranging from 4 to 9 meters (including tippet) depending on the stream. If you are fishing a very small, tight stream you might want a line a couple feet shorter than the rod so that when you add tippet the total length from rod to fly is only a foot or two longer than the rod. It is easier to cast to tight spots with a shorter line. Also, it is much easier to keep your line off the water, minimizing drag and greatly improving your presentation. After you hook a fish you will be able to reach it with your net and not have to grab the line with your hand to bring it in the last few feet. For general use, a line the length of the rod or a bit longer is good (to which you add a few feet of tippet). This length gives a bit more reach to your cast, but still isn't so long that you can't keep most of the line off the water. A foot longer than the rod is the length that Dr. Ishigaki set up for me when he gave his presentation in the Catskills. An even longer line makes sense when fishing wider streams, ponds or lakes.
Fluorocarbon vs. MonoMost level lines are made from fluorocarbon because it is denser than nylon monofilament. For a given weight it has less wind resistance and casts more easily. The only problem with fluorocarbon line, at least in the US, is that it is marketed as being invisible to fish. High visibility just hasn't been much of a priority.
Stren Clear Blue Fluorescent fluorocarbon, Berkley Vanish Transition, and the Daiwa tenkara line now available on eBay aren't even close to being as hi-vis as the TenkaraBum orange line, and I find them harder to see than even the Tenkara USA level line. Not too long ago, Bass Pro Shops introduced a yellow fluorocarbon line that they marketed as being hi-vis. In tests on the stream, I couldn't see it. It wasn't even close to being hi-vis, yet it was discontinued after about a year because bass anglers wouldn't guy it. That's the problem that occurs when line manufacturers, retailers and anglers all believe deep down that fluorocarbon line ought to be invisible. If I can't see the line, I can't watch for a slight twitch or hesitation that might be the only indication of a delicate strike. I am convinced that the fish are not spooked by colored line. Line splash or line shadow, yes. Line color, no. The fluorocarbon spinning lines developed for bass anglers are also formulated to be as limp as possible, but for tenkara lines stiffer is better. When considering fluorocarbon I really think it is better to buy tenkara line rather than a spool of fluorocarbon spinning line. Until I found the truly hi-vis fluorescent orange fluorocarbon line, I used mono in very low light conditions. Even though it's less dense and doesn't cast as well, brightly colored mono lines were much easier to see. For me, that more than made up for the slightly harder casting. Because of the lower density, you need a thicker line to get enough weight to cast well. I must say, though, that because a truly hi-vis fluorocarbon is now available, I really don't think there is a good reason to use mono. Similarly, although I frequently get questions about using the brightly colored Amnesia running line, it is made from nylon and for tenkara is really no improvement over a regular monofilament line. Rigging the Level LineFor something as simple as level line, is it necessary to have instructions on how to rig it? Well, maybe for the first time you do it, as it is completely different than rigging Western fishing lines.Some anglers tie a perfection loop into the rod end of the line and attach a braided loop (fly line backing) similar to that used to attach tapered lines. I have tried that as well, but I must say that after really getting used to the knots shown below, I find these knots to be just as easy to use and much more reliable.
Before you tighten the loop, fold the end of the lillian back down to where you can hold the end of the lillian and the rod tip together with your thumb and forefinger, and have your thumb and forefinger braced on the end of the grip section. When everything is braced so that the rod tip cannot possibly be pulled sideways, tighten the loop by pulling the line in the direction the rod is pointing, not at an angle.. The photo below is large because it is important.
To remove the line, again hold the end of the lillian and the rod tip between your thumb and forefinger while holding the end of the grip section with your other fingers. Grasp the figure 8 knot on the tag end of the attachment knot and pull it directly in line with the rod. It should loosen the attachment knot enough to take it off the lillian. Again, be very careful that you do not pull the rod tip towards the side. After you take the line off you can pull out the arbor knot, but you certainly don't have to, and can leave the loop in place for your next outing. This end of the line will probably have a permanent bend in it, so if you do pull out the arbor knot, use the same end each time.
If you are using a very light line (size 2 or 2.5) a figure 8 knot will not be large enough to hold the tippet on securely. For those lines, I would recommend either a perfection loop or a tippet ring.
Sure, you could use a perfection loop instead, but the figure 8 knot works very well and is simpler.
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